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Surf report

Matt writes from Hawaii with this great report about his surf session:

Yesterday was bigger, 5-8 feet solid in the bowls alamoana area. It took me 45 minutes to get out only to catch 3 waves. Today it settled down and was pushing 3-5 feet. I was in the right spot all night. I am proud to say I caught my first stand up barrel going right at bowls. What a trip! It was like slow motion. I saw the wave begin its curl and I got some speed, pulled down into it, and bent my knees ever so slightly, time suspended and I was entombed by this beautiful wave. I whizzed out the other side after what seemed like eternity and grinned. This was the holy grail. Now i will order pizza and relax.

10/09/2005 by in Stories | permalink |